The oven has not gone cold in thirty-eight years.

Three generations, one fire.

Nonna Rosa opened a nine-table room off Capel Street in 1987 with a recipe book and an oven shipped in pieces from Naples. Her grandson runs the pass now. The book has not changed.

• 87Rosa arrives in Dublin and opens the first room. Nine tables, no printed menu, whatever the market had that morning.
• 04The oven is rebuilt brick by brick by the same family in Naples that laid it the first time.
• 19Marco takes the pass. Adds three dishes. Removes none.
• 26Still nine tables. Still no bookings past 9pm, because the fire needs to rest.